"As we started up the Costa del Sol, one of the first places we reached was Puerto de la Duquesa. It was here, ten years earlier that we had come to look at our boat before buying it and having it transported to the UK by road. We had intended to make some kind of a pilgrimage on our return, but in the event, we waved as we sailed past, and carried on to Estepona. This was our first stop in the Mediterranean. What a contrast to Gibraltar! The town was clean and tidy, the marina was efficient and full of friendly staff and the sun was shining!"
Sailing along the western Mediterranean, hugging the shores of Spain, France, to the border with Italy, is a journey that takes you through some of the world’s most beautiful and storied coastlines. From Spain’s vibrant Costa Brava, through the glamorous French Riviera, to Italy’s rustic Ligurian and Tyrrhenian shores, the Mediterranean offers both seasoned and novice sailors an unforgettable passage. We undertook this journey, relishing each wave, anchorage, and port town, capturing the adventure in a book to share the spirit of this sunlit coast with others. These highlights, anchorages, and key stops from our voyage, offer firsthand insights into what makes each stretch of the Mediterranean so enchanting.
Sailing along Spain’s Costa del Sol is a breathtaking experience where the Mediterranean’s calm, blue waters meet a vibrant coast of lively towns, golden beaches, and scenic mountain backdrops. This “Coast of the Sun” is famous for its mild climate and sunshine nearly all year, making it an ideal sailing destination. As you cruise past renowned ports like Marbella and Puerto Banús, you’ll find luxurious yachts alongside traditional fishing boats, creating a blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication. The coastal scenery shifts from long, sandy beaches to rugged cliffs and hidden coves, perfect for anchoring and swimming in crystal-clear waters. Each port town offers something unique: Málaga’s historic Alcazaba fortress, Fuengirola’s bustling beachside promenade, and Estepona’s quaint whitewashed streets and colorful floral displays. With warm winds filling the sails and the stunning Andalusian coastline unfolding at each turn, sailing the Costa del Sol is a journey through some of Spain’s most picturesque and culturally rich seascapes.
"While we were in Almerimar, we arranged for our younger son, Tom, to come out and spend some time with us on the boat. He had returned earlier than expected from Australia, and his initial plans to work in a pub in Sussex had fallen through. We left to pick him up from Almeria airport, a short way round the coast. It was great to have Tom sailing with us again and there was a lot to talk about as we made our way around Cabo de Gata and up the coast toward Garrucha. After a night anchored in the harbour, we continued on towards Cartagena, passing into the Costa Cálida. With a strengthening wind, it was a lively sail and the waves began to build during the afternoon. When we were about an hour away, with the wind whistling and green water crashing over us, a pod of pilot whales came a bit too close to the boat for my liking, followed by a pod of dolphins. Tom, who had a degree in Zoology, was very excited!"
Approaching the Costa Blanca, the coast transforms into a dazzling stretch of white-sand beaches and turquoise bays, with towns like Alicante, Altea, and Jávea offering picturesque marinas and stunning views of the mountains meeting the sea. The iconic Peñón de Ifach rock formation in Calpe signals the heart of Costa Blanca, where the Mediterranean’s clear waters and steady breezes make each anchorage a perfect spot to swim, snorkel, or simply relax.
"Tom was sitting at the front of the boat playing Spanish guitar music as we were heading up the coast to Torrevieja, at the start of the Costa Blanca, which made for a very pleasant and relaxing sail. As we entered the harbour, we could see several other boats at anchor, so we joined them rather than going into the marina. Our middle-aged neighbour was bending over on the deck of his catamaran, tidying up some ropes. It was hard not to notice that he was completely naked and that he was taking far too long over the task. Every time we saw him, he was completely naked, including when he was visiting the other boats in the harbour. Then we noticed that they were naked too. In fact, everyone around us was naked. We had obviously arrived, unwittingly, into a colony of liveaboard nudists. Quite what their neighbours in the marina thought about their activities was unclear, but, as we had no appetite for any more of our neighbour’s exhibitionism over breakfast, we escaped early in the morning."
Sailing along Spain’s Costa de Valencia to Costa Brava is a captivating journey through a diverse coastline, where vibrant cityscapes and historic towns blend seamlessly with natural beauty. Starting along the Costa de Valencia, with its iconic city of Valencia, you’ll experience a rich cultural mix, from the futuristic architecture of the City of Arts and Sciences to traditional fishing villages and secluded beaches just beyond. Moving north, the Costa del Azahar, or “Orange Blossom Coast,” greets sailors with fragrant groves, charming harbors, and ancient castles like Peñíscola’s clifftop fortress.
"During the afternoon, we were fortunate to stumble across an event that Jane had read about prior to us leaving the UK. Each year, Barcelona hosts a competition called ‘Els Castells’ or ‘Human Towers’, where entire families compete to form the highest human tower they can create. We arrived just in time to watch the winning team perform. The stronger members of the family form a pyramid at the base and then a younger set climbs onto their shoulders and forms a smaller pyramid, and so on as younger and younger members of the family scramble up the backs of the others to reach the top. The resulting tower seems to defy gravity and Health and Safety regulations! It culminates in four or five-year-old kids taking the applause ten metres above the ground before scrambling down, like monkeys, across the backs of their relatives as they all descend to reach the safety of the ground again."
The coast gradually becomes more rugged and dramatic as you reach the Costa Brava, where jagged cliffs, hidden coves, and turquoise waters make for some of Spain’s most picturesque anchorages. Towns like Tossa de Mar, with its medieval walls, and Cadaqués, beloved by Salvador Dalí, invite exploration both onshore and offshore. With crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming, steady Mediterranean breezes, and stunning landscapes around every headland, sailing this stretch of Spain’s coast offers a unique blend of cultural richness and natural splendor.
"Ever since entering the Mediterranean, the wildlife had been disappointing compared to the Atlantic. Other than a few dolphins and pilot whales, there was very little. Early on we had flying fish, which was a surprise, and it took us a while to realise what they were. There would be a commotion in the water and suddenly, a large number of objects would emerge, flying above the water in all directions at high speed, looking like some kind of firework. We were used to seeing birds flying in the sky, birds diving into the water, fish swimming in the water and fish jumping out of the water. Now we had to get used to fish zooming out of the water and behaving like birds. It was very, very confusing! In any event, by this time, the sealife seemed to have been replaced by insects and we had a lot of butterflies and colourful dragonflies alongside us. One of these dragonflies decided to cling on our boat for dear life and hitch a lift with us over the border from Spain to France."
