"When you are in France, it is hard to avoid the subject of French toilets. Tom has always had a very low opinion of them. I am not sure whether this impression was formed on a school trip, later in his adult life or whether it had been in his DNA from birth, but it was firmly established in any case. The marina toilet exploding in Port Vendres, while he was using it, did nothing to improve his opinion which will now be permanently fixed for the rest of his life."
Sailing the Mediterranean coast of France, from the Spanish border to the Italian Riviera, is a journey through a breathtaking landscape where rich history meets natural beauty. The coastline shifts dramatically from the rugged cliffs of the Côte Vermeille to the glamorous beaches and marinas of the French Riviera. Along the way, you’ll find hidden coves, charming fishing villages, and vibrant cities brimming with culture. Having experienced this route myself and written a book about my adventures, I’m excited to share the highlights and insights of sailing this stunning stretch of Mediterranean France. Each leg of the journey reveals a different side of France, making it a truly unforgettable route.
Just north of the Spanish border, the Côte Vermeille is a dramatic and relatively untouched stretch of coast, where the Pyrenees Mountains drop straight into the sea. Just around the headland, Port-Vendres presents a working port atmosphere with lively seafood markets and a marina ideal for a restful night. Beyond Port-Vendres, the scenery changes to wide-open, sandy shores, and the winds can pick up quickly, especially with the mistral blowing from the northwest. With a steady hand at the helm, this region offers exhilarating sailing conditions and stunning coastal vistas. Reaching Cap d'Agde marks the end of this stretch, where the modern marina is set against volcanic cliffs and long beaches. This unique town is well-equipped for sailors, providing excellent facilities and a lively port atmosphere that blends relaxation with the spirit of adventure quintessential to the western Mediterranean.
"While we were in the marina office, we heard there was a tramontane wind on its way. This is very similar to the mistral although coming from the north rather than the north west. It can also be a few miles per hour stronger than the mistral, but who’s counting! This nightmare can last for several days, so we thought we would get to Port Leucate before it hit. We set off in a pleasant breeze on our four-hour journey. Within an hour, the wind strength had increased significantly and moved into the north. They weren’t joking about how quickly it can build up! Soon after, the wind was howling through the rigging, and by the time we approached the entrance to Port Leucate, it had reached a full gale. The waves were not particularly high as it was an offshore wind and, as soon as we entered the harbour, we were protected to some degree by the surrounding buildings."
Crossing the Golfe du Lion in a small boat is a challenging and exhilarating endeavor that requires careful planning, patience, and respect for the region’s powerful winds and unpredictable weather. Known for the mistral, a strong, cold wind that sweeps down from the Rhône Valley, the Golfe du Lion can quickly turn from calm seas to extremely treachorous conditions, especially for smaller vessels. Before setting out, it’s essential to check and monitor weather forecasts closely, as the mistral can develop with little warning and create large swells across the open gulf.
"In the end, our crossing of the Golfe du Lion was totally uneventful. The day we picked was completely calm, without a breath of wind and, although it meant we had to motor all the way, it suited us just fine, given the alternatives! The weather remained well-behaved for the first part of our trip to Marseille. During the second part, we could see what looked like a line squall approaching, complete with lightning flashes and ominous claps of thunder. We prepared ourselves for a ‘Code Red’ situation, reefing the sails and putting on our lifejackets and harnesses. As it hit us, we were glad we were on the way into a secure harbour and not exposed in the middle of the Golfe du Lion! Marseille was great. You enter the harbour through a narrow gap between two headlands. On the left side is a huge fortified wall with a lighthouse on top, and on the right side there is a hill housing the imposing Palais du Pharo. Once inside the entrance, it opens out into the very large Old Port. There is an edge to Marseille. Later on, we found the same quality in Naples, a kind of arrogant individuality which is very refreshing and exciting after the sanitised conformity of so many modern cities. Also, like Naples, it has a total disregard for rules and regulations! Even so, we didn’t feel unsafe as we wandered around the city, making our way up to the stunning cathedral, Notre-Dame de la Garde."
The French Riviera starts around Toulon and stretches all the way to the Italian border, and this iconic stretch of coast is renowned for its luxury yachts, upscale marinas, and glamorous nightlife. Just outside of Toulon lie the Île de Porqueroles, providing a fabulour anchorage in clear water. Continuing along the French Riviera brings you into the heart of Mediterranean luxury and charm. St. Tropez, although often busy in peak season, it is less frantic and reasonably priced off season, providing an affordable example of the quintessential Riviera lifestyle. The old town, with its pastel buildings and lively markets, is charming and offers a glimpse of traditional Provençal life.
"Our next stop was the Île de Porquerolles, just around the headland and south-east of the port of Toulon. There are three islands that make up the Îles d’Hyeres and Porquerolles is the largest and the most westerly. It was a truly beautiful spot. If we had to choose one place to keep a boat from all of the places we had been to, it would be here. We anchored off a sandy beach and, even though it was the middle of October by this time, we still managed to have a swim in the clear water. We rowed ashore and went for a walk through the woods where we discovered a wonderful holiday village nestled among the trees. It was really nicely designed, clean and wellequipped with playgrounds and activities for kids."
"The engine must have been operating on fumes when we motored into Saint-Tropez, but it did at least last out, sparing us the embarrassment of floating around, out of control, in one of the most exclusive marinas in the world! As we looked around, it didn’t come as a great surprise to discover that it was a very nice place. While we were there, we were waiting to receive some payments and money was tight, leaving us without the funds to buy wine. “Hard times, Janey, hard times...” our son would remark, shaking his head. A German boat moored up alongside us. They did not have the correct cable to connect to the shore power, and the marina office was closed, so they asked if we could help. We managed to connect them through one of our sockets and they were very grateful. About an hour later, there was a knock on our roof. I opened the hatch to find our neighbour offering us a bottle of wine as a thank-you present which I graciously accepted. As soon as our hatch was closed, there were more fist pumps and high fives as the glasses were lined up."
Nice, a city that perfectly blends old-world charm and cosmopolitan appeal. The city’s Vieux Port (Old Port) is well-equipped, and docking here allowed me to explore Nice’s colorful streets, beautiful squares, and Mediterranean beaches. The Promenade des Anglais, a palm-lined boulevard along the waterfront, is a must-see, offering scenic views of the city’s pebbly beaches and turquoise waters.
"We had been looking forward to visiting Antibes but, when we radioed the marina control to request a berth, they replied that they were completely full and we would have to go elsewhere. Luckily, Nice was only a short trip across the bay and there was a place for us there. Once we were settled, we went into the city to look around. We walked along the famous seafront and into the Old Town to buy some dinner. It was a charming labyrinth of narrow streets and historic buildings with a buzzing, multicultural feel about it. We wandered around happily for an hour or so, browsing through the shops and enjoying the atmosphere. When we returned to the boat we saw some grubby, suspicious looking characters with their eyes on a large superyacht that had entered the harbour. We realised a little later on that they were paparazzi, lurking around and hoping to catch the occupants unawares."
Not far from Nice is the Principality of Monaco, a unique destination and a highlight for any sailor. Docking in Port Hercules, Monaco’s main marina, was an experience in itself, with luxury yachts and the glittering skyline creating an unforgettable backdrop. Monaco’s attractions include the historic Prince’s Palace, the Oceanographic Museum, and the famous Monte Carlo Casino. The contrast between Monaco’s opulence and the natural beauty surrounding it is striking, making it a memorable stop along the journey.
"A short way outside Nice and we passed the exclusive enclave of Villefranche-sur-Mer. I remembered it as being the place where the Rolling Stones had recorded the album, Exile on Main Street. There being no shortage of exclusive enclaves in this area, we rounded Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and were soon approaching Monaco. We radioed the marina and asked if they had a berth for the night. The operator asked for the length of the boat. When I told him ten and a half metres, he actually sniggered and replied that they didn’t take boats that small. We later found out that there is another marina where they put the poor people but he didn’t volunteer that information so we carried on."
"It would be hard to decribe our excitement as we arrived at the Italian border. With great ceremony we lowered the French courtesy flag and raised the Italian one. After nearly six months and a voyage of two thousand, seven hundred and fifty eight miles, we finally entered San Remo harbour."
