"There is a kind of faded elegance about the Italian Riviera that we found very appealing. To be fair, lots of people find it appealing! We had seen several films set in the area over the years, including The Talented Mr. Ripley, which we had watched just before we left the UK. Although much of the story takes place in Southern Italy, in areas we later visited, there are some scenes set in San Remo that we remembered clearly. The public harbour was very large, with quays on three sides. We were moored about halfway down the outside quay, so it was quite a walk into the centre of the city. Once there, it was open and pleasant, with plenty of shops, Internet cafes and other facilities. We enjoyed walking down to the famous casino, which epitomises the style and charm of the city."
Sailing through Italy is more than just a journey across the sea, it's a passage through history, a brush with beauty, and an intimate encounter with Italy’s soul. When we first arrived in Italy, we knew we were embarking on a transformative adventure, but we never realised just how deeply the experience would weave into our lives. From the comfortable coastline of Liguria, past the historic towns of Tuscany and the Roman grandeur of Lazio, down past the exotic lure of the southern regions to the wild, untamed coastlines of Sicily and the hidden coves of Sardinia, each moment revealed the richness of Italy’s islands and coastlines, transforming our view of Italy into something more profound, more personal. But we are moving too fast!
Sailing along the Ligurian coast is an intimate way to explore Italy’s famed Riviera, with its picturesque villages, rugged cliffs, and sparkling turquoise waters. Liguria’s coastline, known for its dramatic beauty, allows small-boat sailors to access hidden coves and charming harbours that larger vessels may miss. Liguria’s temperate climate and relatively calm seas make it an ideal sailing destination, though it’s important to monitor local conditions as the region can experience strong winds, particularly in winter. Sailing a small boat here is an unforgettable way to experience Liguria’s blend of rich maritime heritage, scenic landscapes, and timeless coastal charm.
"The next day, we set off down the coast, sailing past the famous villages of Cinque Terre. We stayed close to the shore to make the most of the iconic imagery that unfolded in front of us. There were five villages, one after another, each made up of a series of tall, thin houses, packed closely together and all painted in different shades of brown, yellow, orange, pink and red. They looked as though they were stacked on top of each other as they rose up the rocky hillsides, with terraced vineyards rising up even higher behind them. Sailing down this coast in the bright sunshine, a few hundred metres away from this totally unique landscape, is something we will never forget."
"The Gulf of La Spezia is a huge natural harbour also known as the Bay of Poets due to the area’s popularity with writers and artists over the years. Approaching from the north, there is a narrow entrance between the headland and the Isola Palmaria. As we turned inside, we passed the pretty town and harbour of Portovenere on the left. This was a favourite spot of the English poet, Lord Byron, who apparently used to swim from here across the gulf to visit his friend, Percy Bysshe Shelley, who lived near Lerici on the other side."
"During the night, things deteriorated dramatically. It is the only time we have ever been scared for our lives, moored up in a marina! The wind continued to howl through the rigging, and the mast was shuddering with the pressure. The size of the waves increased to at least two metres, which is a frightening amount of movement when you are on a boat, surrounded by other boats and large amounts of concrete. The sight of the entire pontoon, three metres wide and twenty metres long, rising and falling on a two-metre swell, is quite something to behold! Then a yacht broke free of its mooring in front of us and bounced backwards and forwards, smashing itself to pieces against the pontoon and other yachts for hours. Remarkably, it stayed afloat!"
Sailing along the Tuscan coast offers a journey through one of Italy’s most captivating landscapes, where rolling hills meet the Mediterranean’s clear blue waters. The coastline is dotted with historic port towns, sandy beaches, and inviting coves that are perfect for small-boat exploration. With mild Mediterranean weather most of the year, Tuscany’s calm seas and inviting harbors make it an idyllic destination for small-boat sailors, offering a peaceful yet scenic way to enjoy Italy’s coastal beauty and rich history.
"Viareggio is also the centre of luxury boat-building in Italy and one of the most important producers of superyachts in the world. Perini Navi, famous for their amazing sailing yachts, the largest of which is eighty-eight metres long, are based there, as are Benetti, San Lorenzo and VSY. There are also many other smaller specialist companies. Consequently, the harbour area was always a hub of activity, which made our lives more interesting. At one time, there was a superyacht being fitted out near us that was five storeys high! On the other side of us was a canal that wound its way up through the town. Both sides were lined with fishing boats and tiny yachts that were moored there for free. It was a strange feeling to walk along the road with boats worth a fortune on one side of you and boats worth nothing on the other. Viareggio is full of contradictions and seemed to accommodate both quite comfortably."
Sailing around Sardinia is a magical experience, where unspoiled beaches, turquoise waters, and rugged coastlines reveal the island’s wild beauty. Sardinia is a paradise for small-boat sailors, with countless hidden coves and secluded anchorages that are perfect for exploring at a leisurely pace. Sardinia’s warm Mediterranean climate, clear waters, and welcoming marinas make it a sailor’s dream, with ample opportunities for snorkeling, swimming, and exploring one of Italy’s most beautiful and untouched coastlines.
"The Maddalena archipelago is the playground of the rich and famous, and it’s easy to see why. There are ten larger islands and fifty-five smaller ones, all nestled in an area of crystal clear water, with wall-to-wall sunshine and pristine, Caribbean-style beaches. Take one of the most exclusive development projects in the world, the Costa Smeralda, paid for by the Aga Khan and friends, add a never-ending stream of ‘A’ list celebrities, together with the world’s largest superyachts, and you get the picture. However, this picture only applies to the summer months. For the rest of the year, it is an empty paradise that can be explored by poorer people without any restrictions."
"Calasetta was a revelation. Although it was totally unlike anywhere that we had ever been before, it immediately felt like home. The town was very basic. The houses were mainly low and white and had a kind of Arab or North African feel to them. There was no fancy architecture, no public parks nor any decorative areas at all. It was very hot and dry, and the vegetation was mainly scrubby. There were palm trees and cactus plants everywhere, broken up by the occasional burst of outrageously bright colours from a range of exotic looking flowers. Wall lizards and geckos were plastered against the walls, everywhere you looked. There was nothing we could really put a finger on, but there was a feeling of warmth and comfort about the place that enveloped us straight away and made us realise we were somewhere special."
Sailing along Lazio’s coast offers a unique perspective on Italy’s rich history and beautiful seaside landscapes, from ancient ruins to charming fishing villages. Starting from Rome’s closest port, Ostia, small-boat sailors can explore a mix of sandy beaches, historic sites, and tranquil anchorages. The highlight for many sailors is reaching the Pontine Islands. The islands boast crystal-clear waters, natural rock formations, and secluded coves accessible only by boat, making them ideal for a small-boat adventure. Sailing Lazio’s coast provides a delightful mix of history, natural beauty, and the serene allure of the Italian seaside.
"The next day was a special day. As we motored into Santa Marinella, it was a moment of history for us. Many years before, Jane and I had stood on that harbour wall, looking out to sea, promising ourselves that one day we would return in our boat. Now, four years later and with another 4,500 nautical miles under the keel, we had kept that promise."
"The island of Ventotene was the most extraordinary place we had ever been to. It was rugged, wild and remote, with very few inhabitants. It is easy to see why the Emperor Augustus thought of the island as a suitable place to exile his lascivious daughter, Julia the Elder. She probably arrived by galley into the old Roman harbour, which is still there, located a few metres away from the main harbour where we were moored up against the quayside. Remarkably, it is still used by the local fishing boats and is a hive of activity."
Sailing along Campania’s coast is a breathtaking journey through some of Italy’s most iconic and picturesque landscapes, from the legendary Amalfi Coast to the historic islands of the Tyrrhenian Sea. With generally calm waters, a warm climate, and plenty of harbours for provisioning, Campania offers a dreamlike setting for small-boat adventures, blending natural beauty with history and Italian coastal charm.
"On the other side of the bay was a fishing harbour called La Corricella. We rowed inside a protective stone wall to find the most extraordinary harbour we had ever seen. There were a number of fishing boats moored up on buoys, in what seemed to be a totally random manner. We tied the dinghy up on the wide stone quay which was covered in upturned, wooden rowing boats and piles of fishing nets. Some ancient mariners sat on rickety stools, painstakingly mending their nets while shouting at their companions in a language that sounded nothing like Italian, occasionally stopping to gesticulate wildly. Behind the quay were rows of houses, all stacked on top of each other in several tiers going backwards up the hill. They were all different shapes and sizes, in various states of repair, and painted in an array of different colours, with stairways, arches, terraces, windows and doors creating a totally chaotic effect. One house even had the front part of a boat protruding from the living room wall! We walked up some steps to the street at the top, behind the houses, and strolled the short distance down to the main port area."
"Sailing along the Amalfi Coast reminded us of sailing past Cinque Terre two years before. It had the same kind of iconic, majestic imagery that just couldn’t be mistaken for anywhere else. It was a lot hotter though! As we sailed close to a group of islands, which were more like large rocks, we could see some boats anchored in the narrow gaps between them, fishing and diving into the water. Then we went past the famous seafront of Positano, round the headland at Conca, before arriving in front of the harbour at Amalfi itself. It was like travelling along a series of postcards with each one coming to life as we passed by. But there again, the same thing could be said for much of Italy."
Sailing along Calabria’s coast offers a raw and unspoiled experience of southern Italy, where rugged cliffs, ancient towns, and crystalline waters await around every corner. Tropea’s dramatic cliffs, with its historic center perched high above and turquoise waters below, make for a breathtaking sight as you approach by boat. Small boats can find sheltered coves along this coast, perfect for dropping anchor and diving into the pristine sea. Calabria’s warm Mediterranean climate, sparsely populated anchorages, and wild natural beauty make it an ideal destination for small-boat sailors seeking a secluded and authentic Italian coastal experience.
"We wasted no time in returning to the beach, just outside the marina, where the anchor had taken its last breath. It was a truly beautiful location, with soft white sand, sloping gently down into the warm, crystal clear water. It was the first time we had ever taken advantage of the loungers, table and umbrella that come with a ticket to the lido on Italian beaches, and it seemed like the very height of luxury. As our friend in Nettuno had said, “why would Italians need to go anywhere else?” We wouldn’t have wanted to be anywhere else either!"
Sailing around Sicily is an enchanting experience that combines Mediterranean beauty with the island’s rich cultural and historical heritage. The Sicilian coast offers a mix of vibrant port cities, hidden beaches, and crystal-clear waters ideal for exploration in a smaller vessel. The island’s milder Mediterranean weather allows for more favorable conditions, though it’s still wise to monitor local forecasts for any sudden changes, especially in the Strait of Messina, where currents can be strong. For small-boat sailors, Sicily’s diverse coastline, historical landmarks, and warm local culture make it an unforgettable Mediterranean destination.
"One of the most famous towns on the northern coast is Cefalù. As we passed the harbour itself and made our way round to the famous bay in front of the town, we passed a rocky stretch of coast with a row of houses above, overlooking the sea. Some were restaurants, with tables and chairs on wooden platforms extending out over the rocks. What a place to eat dinner! Cefalù is actually one of the locations featured in Cinema Paradiso. We were excited as we anchored in the bay and immediately recognised the quay where part of the film is set. Cefalù was the first place where we first glimpsed the real Sicily."
"The town of Erice towers above the surrounding countryside, perched at the top of Mount Erice, 750 metres above the sea, which is very close and a very long way down. The town was founded by the Phoenicians and adopted by the Greeks before being destroyed by the Carthaginians in the First Punic War. It was later ruled by the Arabs until the Normans took over in the 12th century. As we saw elsewhere in Sicily, this mixture of cultures has created some wonderful locations, made up of a fascinating blend of influences, and Erice is a perfect example."
"We wandered around the steep, winding streets, walking over beautifully ornate, Moorish patterned tiles, passing shops with colourful displays of fabrics, bags and ornaments and admiring the artistry of the intricate carved stonework that surrounded many of the windows and doorways in the town. We stopped outside the open door of a restaurant, where an antique, wooden cartwheel, casually decorating the entrance area, successfully enticed us inside for lunch. The meal was very simple and the best we had experienced so far in Sicily. It was a famous dish, Pasta ca’ Muddica, which is basically plain pasta, with some oil, garlic and a small amount of pecorino cheese, topped with toasted, grated breadcrumbs. These are apparently used as an alternative to grated Parmesan cheese, a delicacy that was unaffordable in Sicily for much of its history. As we left Erice and returned to Marsala, we felt that our passion for the magic of this Island had been reignited."
"From Mazara del Vallo onwards, things deteriorated rapidly. With the trappings of civilisation falling away completely, we found ourselves skirting around a Third World country not really wanting to stop anywhere. Sciacca, our next stop, is one of the locations that feature in the popular Italian TV drama, Inspector Montalbano, where it appears to be both exotic and historic. To us, it was neither of those things. Instead, it was threatening, dirty and uncomfortable, with suspicious locals acting aggressively, and packs of wild dogs roaming the filthy streets."
"Siracusa was a tale of two cities. The modern-day Siracusa was shabby, dirty and ugly, but Ortigia, the old city of Siracusa and the ancient capital of the Greek empire, was extraordinarily beautiful and quite inspirational."
"The area is rich in myths and legends. The most famous whirlpool is called Charybdis, a mythical sea monster living in an area just north of the Strait of Messina. Three times a day, she would become a huge whirlpool, sucking ships down to their doom under the water. Opposite, there is a town on the Calabrian coast called Scylla, named after a beautiful mythical nymph who also changed into a sea monster, luring mariners to their deaths on the rocks. The twin perils of Scylla and Charybdis are also mentioned in the Odyssey. Odysseus and his crew had a pretty rough time when they passed between them, or so the story goes. Our trip was a lot less stressful!"
Sailing in Italy is a captivating experience that blends stunning coastal scenery, rich history, and vibrant culture, creating an unforgettable journey through some of the Mediterranean’s most enchanting waters. Italy’s varied coastlines, from the dramatic cliffs of the Amalfi Coast and the serene bays of Sardinia to the colorful fishing villages of Liguria and the ancient ports of Sicily, offer something unique at every turn. Small boats can navigate into secluded coves, picturesque harbors, and crystal-clear waters, allowing sailors to discover Italy’s hidden beaches and historic seaside towns at their own pace. Each region has its own distinctive charm, from the sophisticated marinas of the Italian Riviera to the rustic beauty of Calabria, and each is infused with the warmth of Italian hospitality, food, and culture. The perfect blend of natural beauty, accessible anchorages, and cultural richness makes sailing in Italy an ideal way to experience the Mediterranean, with the freedom to explore everything from lively coastal cities to remote island paradises.
