"The next day, a short distance outside Viveiro, we approached Punta de Estaca de Bares, the northernmost point of Spain, a remote, jagged and isolated spot. It was a stirring sight, even on a calm day, and it didn’t take much imagination to picture it with the full fury of an Atlantic storm crashing onto it. As we rounded it, we felt like we were turning the corner on the first part of our trip. This was where the Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal began. A new adventure for us, which would end when we arrived at Cape St. Vincent at the southern end of Portugal, another key marker for the future."
Sailing along the Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal is a journey through diverse seascapes, historic ports, and vibrant coastal cultures. This route, from Spain’s rugged northwestern corner to Portugal’s sun-kissed Algarve, is a well-loved passage among sailors and one that we had long dreamed of taking. When we finally set sail down this fabled coastline, it was a sense of both excitement and reverence for the adventure ahead. These experiences form part of my book, New Horizons, which I hope paints a picture of some of these remarkable adventures.
Arriving in the historic city of La Coruña by small sailing boat is a remarkable experience, blending the thrill of adventure with a profound sense of history. As the towering Roman lighthouse, the ancient Tower of Hercules, appears on the horizon, sailors are welcomed by the same beacon that guided seafarers centuries ago. The city's skyline unfolds, revealing glass-fronted galleries and bustling harbors that hint at La Coruña’s rich maritime heritage. Docking here, especially after a Bay of Biscay crossing, feels like a true accomplishment, and the city's warm, lively atmosphere offers a fitting reward. Wandering through its old town, with winding streets and authentic tapas bars, sailors feel both at home and connected to a long lineage of explorers who have arrived on these shores.
"Later that day, as we approached la Coruña, we had a few more moments of quiet reflection. Ever since the first days of our planning, La Coruña had been a major milestone on our journey. It was one of those evocative names, along with Lisbon and Cadiz, which are steeped in maritime history. Here we were, sailing past the Roman Tower of Hercules, the oldest lighthouse in the world, and into the harbour that once accommodated the Spanish Armada before it set sail for the south coast of England. The city was exactly as I imagined it. A short walk from the harbour, we found the main square. It is quintessentially Spanish, with numerous outside bars and restaurants set up in front of the distinctive, ornate buildings that line all four sides. It is named after Maria Pita, a local heroine who later helped defend the city against Sir Francis Drake, and her imposing statue stands right in the centre of the square facing the spectacular Municipal Palace building. As we strolled around this huge open space, it seemed like all the history lessons were coming to life!"
"Another name that resonated very deeply with us was Finisterre. Located on the ‘Costa da Morte’, or ‘Coast of Death’, the Romans considered it to be the end of the earth, and the name, Finisterre, comes from the Latin, ‘Finis Terrae’. It was a mythical name we had heard spoken about for years, maybe even decades. The next morning, as we rounded the headland in the early morning sunshine, there it was, right in front of us. The ‘End of the Earth’ in all its glory!"
Crossing from Galicia into Portugal brings noticeable changes in landscape, climate, and even sailing conditions. Our first Portuguese port of call was Viano do Castello. Approaching Viana do Castelo by small boat is a captivating experience. As the town comes into view, framed by the lush, green hills of northern Portugal, the striking Sanctuary of Santa Luzia stands watch over the coastline, a beacon to sailors arriving from the sea. The approach into the Limia River estuary is peaceful, with the gentle sounds of the Atlantic replaced by the calm of the river’s embrace. The marina is welcoming, and docking here feels intimate and relaxed. From the water, Viana do Castelo’s unique blend of historical architecture and vibrant colors invites exploration, with the town’s narrow streets, traditional markets, and friendly locals adding to its coastal allure. For a sailor, arriving here is like discovering a well-kept secret of Portugal’s north.
"Viana do Castelo was our first taste of Portugal, and it had a lovely feel to it. It was completely different to the places we had been to in France and Spain and it really felt like a new adventure. First of all, it was very hot and dry. There were many narrow side streets, one of which led to a small square with a quaint stone chapel decorated in beautiful Portuguese tiles. There were stone seats around the square positioned under fragrant trees that provided shade from the sun for old men who were playing cards at makeshift wooden tables! Down another side street we found a tiny restaurant where we sat down at an outside table covered with a brilliant white tablecloth. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of tuna and bean salad with bread and local wine and paid eight euros for everything. It was like another world!"
The Atlantic coast of Portugal is renowned for its beauty but also poses significant dangers, especially for sailors. Strong winds and powerful swells roll in from the open ocean, creating challenging conditions even for experienced navigators. The coastline is rugged and rocky, with hidden reefs and sandbars that can catch sailors off guard, particularly in rough weather or low visibility. Winter storms are especially fierce, bringing waves that make approaching the coast hazardous, while notorious currents and tides add further unpredictability. Despite these challenges, the allure of Portugal’s Atlantic coast draws sailors, who must respect its power and navigate with caution to safely enjoy its beauty.
"For a while we were sailing well, although Asterix always seemed to be ahead of us. Then the wind died. As we waited to see if it would pick up again, the boat sat motionless on the water. There was complete silence. Just the swell, the darkness and the mist surrounding us. It was magically peaceful. Then a large dolphin burst out of the water a few feet from the side of the boat, nearly giving me a heart attack. It was a cue for the night traffic to come to life. We started the engine and cautiously made our way forward through the mist. We began to hear radio chatter from ships coming in and out of Porto. At one point I thought I saw a gloomy shape ahead, but a hurried glance at the radar screen showed that it was my imagination. It is not hard to imagine shapes in the middle of a misty night off the Atlantic coast of Portugal!"
"As we passed Porto, we began to pick up other radio traffic from ships further offshore. The clipped, professional exchanges we were familiar with from sailing in the English Channel were replaced by a bizarre collection of totally surreal conversations that only enhanced the strange atmosphere of the night. As we continued through the mist, an African crewman endlessly recited poetry, seemingly oblivious to the extraordinarily profane and racist abuse meted out to him by a Portuguese captain from another ship. This insane exchange was suddenly interrupted by an American voice, very precise, very professional and strangely out of place. "Calling the vessel at 40, 41.4 north, 11, 42.3 west, repeat calling the vessel at 40, 41.4 north, 11, 42.3 west, do you read me? over". There was a long pause before our abusive Portuguese captain responded. He couldn't keep the unpleasant sneer from his voice. "Who are you?" he asked. The American replied "This is the coastguard, over". More sneering, and another question "The coastguard of what?" There was a pause. Then the response came. This time there was an icy edge to the American's voice. "This is the American warship, Eagle. You will remain at least one nautical mile away from this vessel at all times. Do you understand? DO YOU UNDERSTAND? OVER" This time no sneering. "Yes, Sir! Yes, Sir! Yes, Sir!". After a short period of silence, the poetry reading started again, this time uninterrupted."
Lisbon, Portugal's captivating capital, is a city steeped in history and alive with a vibrant, modern spirit. Known for its iconic yellow trams, sunlit hills, and breathtaking views over the Tagus River, Lisbon offers a blend of old-world charm and contemporary culture. The narrow, cobbled streets of Alfama and Bairro Alto wind past historic buildings, Fado music spilling out from traditional taverns, while landmarks like the Belém Tower and Jerónimos Monastery recall Lisbon’s grand Age of Discovery. The city’s thriving art scene, diverse cuisine, and warm, welcoming atmosphere make it a favorite destination, capturing the essence of Portugal’s unique blend of tradition and innovation.
"We made a pilgrimage to the Maritime Museum in the centre of the city and it felt appropriate to have my picture taken alongside Henry the Navigator in the entrance hallway and to meet Vasco de Gama, Magellan and Christopher Columbus shortly afterwards. There are some amazing models of historic ships and other exhibits that are a testament to Portugal’s past glories. Amongst it all, there is the most extensive display of commercial fishing techniques we had ever seen. Having recently watched the trawler loading its nets in Peniche, it was fascinating to see a series of beautifully detailed models illustrating all the different configurations of fishing nets that are used and how they work."
Cape St. Vincent, the southwesternmost point of Portugal and mainland Europe, is a place of rugged beauty and historical significance. Known as the "End of the World" in ancient times, this dramatic cape features towering cliffs that drop steeply into the Atlantic, creating breathtaking views of endless ocean and sky. With its iconic red-and-white lighthouse standing as a beacon for sailors, Cape St. Vincent has witnessed centuries of maritime history, including notable naval battles. Today, visitors come to experience the raw power of the Atlantic, stunning sunsets, and the sense of awe that this remote, windswept landscape inspires.
"Cape St. Vincent was another milestone. The headland is a truly spectacular spot with a magnificent lighthouse perched right on the top of the cliff. It is another of those historic landmarks we had dreamt about at the start of our voyage. Cabo de São Vicente in Portuguese, it was known as the ‘Land of Serpents’ by the ancient Greeks and ‘Holy Promontory’ by the Romans. Saint Vincent, after whom it is named, was buried here in the ‘Church of Ravens’, and then exhumed and transported to Lisbon, together with the ravens, an event that is commemorated on the coat of arms of the city."
Cádiz, one of the oldest cities in Western Europe, is a captivating coastal gem in southern Spain, known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and stunning seaside views. Surrounded almost entirely by water, Cádiz boasts a charming old town with narrow, winding streets, colorful buildings, and lively squares like Plaza de San Juan de Dios. The city’s golden-domed Cathedral, historic forts, and inviting beaches make it a unique blend of history and relaxation. Famous for its annual Carnival, Cádiz bursts with life, music, and tradition, offering visitors a chance to experience the warmth and spirit of Andalusian culture in a truly picturesque setting.
"Cadiz is one of the oldest cities in Europe and another historic location on our ‘tick’ list. The Old Town was a short walk from the marina, and the weather was beautiful. We had a great morning exploring the large, open plazas, lined with palm trees and full of evocative, historic buildings, including the stunning Cadiz Cathedral, standing magnificently in its own square. The city is full of exotic parks and gardens, with stone benches, decorated with colourful Moorish tiles, strategically placed in the shaded areas."
"It was a bright sunny morning as we left Cadiz in company with Asterix. It was a pleasant sail, close to the coast, and, as we turned the headland towards Barbate in the mid-afternoon, we followed the instructions in the pilot book, taking the inside passage close to the headland at Trafalgar. We went round it first, ahead of Asterix, so, following the example set by Admiral Lord Nelson, we also beat the French at Trafalgar!"
Gibraltar, perched at the entrance to the Mediterranean, has long held a crucial role in maritime history and commerce. The iconic Rock of Gibraltar overlooks the narrow strait that connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea, making it one of the most strategically significant locations in the world. This position has made Gibraltar a gateway and a guardian to the Mediterranean, influencing centuries of trade, cultural exchange, and military presence. Today, Gibraltar’s deep-water port is a busy stop for ships entering and exiting the Mediterranean, and its mix of British, Spanish, and North African influences reflects the diverse cultures that have passed through. The Mediterranean shapes Gibraltar’s climate, lifestyle, and identity, blending a unique British character with a vibrant, sun-soaked Mediterranean atmosphere.
"As we approached the Strait, we heard Tarifa radio issuing a gale warning. I called them up to ask exactly when they thought it would hit the area. They told me that it would be after 13.00 hours. As we would be safely inside Gibraltar harbour by then, we decided to carry on. It was another momentous occasion for us. The visibility was not clear as we passed through the strait, but the radar clearly showed the largest number of ships I had ever seen on the screen, passing between the Rock of Gibraltar and the north coast of Africa. Just as we entered the Bay of Gibraltar, the mist cleared a little, and we caught a fleeting glimpse of the coast of Morocco with the Atlas mountains behind. We arrived in the Ocean Village marina, 1,710 miles after leaving the south coast of England, just before the gale hit."
