"As we approached the rocky outline of the North Brittany coast, we felt a building sense of elation. We were finally free! We also felt very hot! When we were about a mile from the coast, it suddenly felt as though someone was pointing a hairdryer at us. It was a hairdryer they didn’t turn off again for the next six months! We were excited as we made our way into the inner bay and moored up alongside a fishing boat."
Setting sail down the Atlantic coast of France is a thrilling experience that offers both challenges and rewards. This route, from the rocky shores of Brittany to the sandy stretches of the Basque coast, has been a pivotal journey for sailors through centuries. The following account details my own journey down this beautiful coast, together with my wife, Jane, in a trip so memorable that I wrote about it in a book to share with fellow sailing enthusiasts, wanderers, and anyone dreaming of the open sea. Here, I’ll take you through some of the highlights, key stops, and insights gained from our experience of sailing France’s Atlantic coastline.
Brittany’s coastline is a sailor’s paradise, and starting the journey here felt appropriate. Known for its rugged cliffs, stone-walled harbors, and dramatic tides, Brittany is an ideal point of departure. Navigating Brittany’s tidal waters requires precision and experience. With tides that can rise over 10 meters, Brittany presents challenges that demand attention to detail. My advice to fellow sailors here is to plan carefully, checking tide schedules and current patterns meticulously. One of the most memorable stretches of this leg is sailing past Pointe du Raz, a headland often compared to France’s "Land’s End." This point, while demanding to navigate, rewards with panoramic views of the Atlantic and the exhilarating feeling of being on the edge of France.
"It was a rough ride. Although the weather was pleasant, what wind there was came from the north, the opposite direction to the incoming tide. The waves had already started to build alarmingly. Soon it was like being inside a washing machine. To add insult to injury, even though we were both motor-sailing at full speed, the strength of the tide was almost matching the speed of the boats, so we were virtually stationary in the middle of the maelstrom! Watching over all this chaos, as it had for over a hundred years, was ‘La Vieille’, a hideous, old, black lighthouse, perched on a black rock, like an evil spirit in a horror movie!"
Stretching from Point Penmarc’h to La Rochelle, the northern part of the Bay of Biscay is a stunning and diverse coastal region of France, known for its wild beauty, rugged cliffs, and sandy beaches. Point Penmarc’h, a historic point jutting out into the Atlantic, marks the beginning of this area. Heading southward along the coast, the landscape transitions between sweeping dunes, marshlands, and charming seaside towns like Les Sables d’Olonne and Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, which boast thriving fishing traditions and vibrant maritime culture. As you approach La Rochelle, the coastline softens into sheltered bays and sandy beaches, with La Rochelle itself standing as a historic port city renowned for its medieval towers, old harbor, and vibrant culture.
"The next stop was Bénodet, just around the headland of Point Penmarc’h. As we approached the headland, Jane asked me if I thought we would see any dolphins yet. I told her that I thought we were still too far north. What happened next could not have been choreographed better if it had been a classic Holywood musical! No sooner had the words left my lips than a huge pod of dolphins burst out of the water. Perhaps they should have been followed by a full orchestra in white tuxedos and started some synchronised swimming routines! There were dolphins everywhere! We later learnt that for every one on the surface, there are many more underneath. If that is true, it must have been a very large pod indeed."
"As we left Bénodet, we passed by the archipelago of the îles de Glénan, home of the Glénans sailing school, whose book, ‘The Glénans manual of sailing’, had been like a bible to me for the past twenty years."
The rivers Aven and Belon, nestled in Brittany, France, are known for their picturesque, serene beauty and their significant contribution to the region’s maritime heritage. Flowing through lush landscapes, they both make their way to the Atlantic, with the Belon river in particular renowned for the oysters farmed in its estuary, which carry a unique, slightly nutty flavor owing to the mineral-rich waters. Not far from these rivers lies the harbor of Lorient, a historic port city with deep naval roots and a vibrant cultural scene. Lorient’s harbor is bustling with fishing and pleasure boats and holds annual maritime festivals celebrating Brittany's rich seafaring traditions. To the southwest, Belle-Île, the largest of Brittany’s islands, emerges in the Bay of Biscay with dramatic cliffs, secluded beaches, and charming villages. This idyllic island draws visitors who wish to experience its natural beauty and relaxed pace, making it a treasured jewel off the Breton coast. Together, the rivers, harbor, and island encapsulate the timeless coastal charm of Brittany.
"The sail to the Île d’Yeu was fabulous with a good steady breeze, an open sea with a gentle swell and clear, sunny skies. The boat was literally in its element. With the sails full, and a comfortable heel on the hull, the long ocean keel powered us reassuringly through the water while the swell gently lifted the boat as it passed by underneath. We could feel the energy as the boat surged forward, vibrating as it reached its maximum hull speed, with the bow slicing through the waves and creating a stream of hissing, frothing foam that cascaded backwards along the side of the hull. As we sat in the cockpit watching the water rushing past us, we couldn’t help thinking that sailing really doesn’t get any better than this!"
The Bay of Biscay has a formidable reputation among sailors, especially those in small yachts, due to its often challenging conditions and unpredictable weather. Known for its powerful Atlantic swells, sudden storms, and fierce winds, it has earned a place as a testing ground for sailors navigating its waters. The bay’s shallow seabed in parts contributes to steep, choppy waves, which can make the journey rough and demanding, especially in smaller vessels. Sailors who conquer the bay often come away with a sense of achievement, having braved one of Europe’s most respected and legendary stretches of water.
"We left Royan at 6.30 am while it was still quite dark, and we went through the south pass with most of the fishing fleet. There was a fair amount of swell and a moderate sea which was not particularly comfortable. The weather was not wonderful, but we were surrounded by some amazing looking clouds. The first day was fairly uneventful. Although there was swell, there was not much wind, and we only managed to sail for five hours. One fishing boat changed course towards us in order to write down our boat name, which didn’t add to our overall enthusiasm for the trip! Other than that boat, we saw no other traffic and very little sign of life in the sea."
"There were dolphins around, but they were just going about their daily business and were not very interested in us at all. Around 11 pm it started to get dark, and the very large clouds which had been with us all day now looked really ominous, and in spite of the wide open space we were in, we felt completely hemmed in. We had the radar set on a radius of twenty-five miles, and there was no-one around. The radio was silent as we were out of range, and I thought I saw lightning and heard thunder, which may well have been artillery fire. We had read before that there are regular gunnery exercises off this part of the coast and the thought that the French might be shooting at us, along with everything else, didn’t help our moods! There were a few moments respite when a pod of dolphins decided to join us but unfortunately it was too dark to see them very clearly."
"After 40 hours at sea, we arrived safely in Gijon, Spain. We were pleased to have completed the trip, but I don’t think it was something either of us had particularly enjoyed. Perhaps if we had been able to sail, we would have enjoyed it more, but sailing comes with risks, so somewhere like the Bay of Biscay you need to be careful what you wish for. All in all, it had been quite boring and more than a little scary at times. We were not the first sailors to do it, and we won’t be the last, but the two of us had crossed the Bay of Biscay in a small boat alone, and we felt pleased with ourselves!"
